The wind is a-changin'

The wind has changed, it is now coming from the south east. That means offshore for most of the breaks on the Naki peninsula. So we hit the beach - twice.

The wind is currently offshore. Primo!

The second time, we picked up Olly from the tiny New Plymouth airport and went straight to the beach for an evening surf til sundown. The point break was called Wisey's, on the northern side of New Plymouth. Clean waves, Right and Left, breaking in roughly the same place - as point breaks do, made for one of the best surf sessions this summer. I especially stoked as I caught a nice wave and was able to work the face a little. The ride seemed to go on forever, but probably lasted just 6 or 7 secs. In an hour of surfing, paddling will take up about 99% of the time. So really, at this stage, I'm a paddler who occasionally puts two feet on the board, on a wave.

I'm even getting into duckdiving, which is the crucial skill that involves diving under an oncoming wave with the surf board. This elusive ability allows the good surfers to get behind the break real with ease.

Duck diving: it looks easy, it's tough to do, but anyone can do it and it looks good underwater, especially in a bikini.

On a day of big surf, the 6'2 shortboard came in quite handy as I practiced trying to duck under some huge waves. It was a bit hit and miss... mostly miss. But the feeling of a huge waves tickling ones calves, knowing one has managed to avoid a wall of white water, is quite blissful.

Now, compared to the Basque Country, les Cavaliers, la Madrague, Parlementia, Hendaye, la Cote des Basques, the sand is a different colour (black vs yellow); there's way more rocks on the beaches; the currents, or rips, are still present, especially on the exposed beaches; size-wise, they are comparably big when the swell is up and small when there's none.

Dear Pays Basque - I haven't forgotten you... (Clockwise from top right, Les Cavaliers, La Madrague, La Cotes des Basques, Parlementia, Hendaye)

One notable difference is the imposing nature of Mt Taranaki, even when in the water. It is an omnipresent force which lies across the entire region. It is also approaching the term of its 500 year quiescent period between major eruptions (last was in 1655). This means most people keep an eye on it whether in the car, shower, toilet, behind the break or scuba diving. I think it's a subconscious awareness of possible impending doom. A Damocles sword hanging over this peaceful region. Meanwhile, the population seems to be making the most of their time, living their carefree lives exercising, going out, eating... - menacing whisper - "but they don't know what's in store for them. It could explode anytime... MuahaHAHAHAHA"

Right.

Stats:

longest run - 25k

longest wave ridden - 8 secs

breaks visited - 8

number of times i've refilled Simon's oil - once, coolant - twice.

weeks of work left - just 4 and a half... how time flies

estimated departure time from enzed - vague (before the 22nd of march)